[CMCEmail] AAJ January 2012 Newsletter

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 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=719ade7997&e=49344561f0> AAJ Online - click to display images


 The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, January 2012



 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4174e5fd65&e=49344561f0>  2011 AAJ cover <http://gallery.mailchimp.com/60afa02764806293a37aacfda/files/AAJ_frontcover_aaj2011.jpg>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4174e5fd65&e=49344561f0> Welcome to 2012! We hope you managed to get into the hills over the Holidays.

This edition of the AAJ Newsletter takes you to Argentina and Chile. While it may be storming up here in the Northern Hemisphere, chances are that in Patagonia... well, it's likely storming there, too. Still, this is the Patagonian climbing season. Maybe you're reading this in an Internet cafe in Chalten?

For those of you who climbed a long new route in 2011--whatever the Hemisphere--please take a few moments to let us know about your ascent. If you value the AAJ, you know that what makes it special is that we do our best to track down and report on (almost) all the world's new mountain and big-wall routes. So we're dependent on you to report what you did.

Also, please think about your friends and what they’ve done. Anything new? Give us a lead and we’ll follow up on it. But time is running out, so please contact us as soon as possible. Thanks.
 
The how, where, and why is all spelled out in the column to the right == <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=15c8ef5305&e=49344561f0> >>
 
In the meantime, have a look at what happened in southern South America last year. Remember, the Climbs & Expeditions reports below are just a sample: to enjoy all the recent additions, click on "New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e3f9ee50ba&e=49344561f0> " and scroll down. Or go to "Reports <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=266e27a4f6&e=49344561f0> " and search by region.

Oh, and the first article is from China, not Chile. We've been including one or more feature articles in each newsletter, and unfortunately there were none from Patagonia in 2011. But not to worry: you'll find plenty of excitement in Bruce Normand's account of climbing both Edgar and Grosvenor in Sichuan.

New Year's Cheers,
John Harlin III
Editor

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China: The Rose of No Man's Land


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4ebcc6b082&e=49344561f0> GrosvenorError! Filename not specified.
By Bruce Normand

Feature article: Eight days under threat on the east face of Mt. Edgar, in Sichuan, yields a route almost too dangerous to be proud of.

There’s nothing neutral about Mt. Edgar. It’s stunning and savage. It’s beautiful and deadly. It’s amazing climbing with incredible dangers. Kyle Dempster and I stepped into the Casino Edgar in November of 2010. We didn’t lose our shirts, but the old adage always holds true: nobody beats The House.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=418bc9e05f&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Mt. Grosvenor from the west. Bruce Normand

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Patagonia: Attempt on east face of Torre Norte


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=870b10a100&e=49344561f0> Torre Norte

By Francisco Parada, Chile, AAC

Felipe Gonzalez Donoso and I climbed on the east face of Torre Norte in Torres del Paine National Park. We climbed all new territory, following three main dihedrals and then through a large overhanging section in the upper wall. We climbed for 11 days with one three-day stop for bad weather. Most of the climbing was icy, forcing us to aid a lot of pitches. Atop pitch 5 we camped for ten nights,….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c06139ed91&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Parada on the east face of Torre Norte. Felipe Gonzalez Donoso

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Patagonia: The Wave Effect

 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=fd572483a4&e=49344561f0> Wave Effect


By Whit Magro, Bozeman, Montana

One tower at a time, Nate Opp, Josh Wharton, and I wanted to do it right. The Wave Effect started with Aguja Desmochada. We linked parts of two different routes: the original Bridwell line, El Condor, and the Huber route, Golden Eagle. The key was freeing the A2 pitch on El Condor, which went at 5.12+, using the rivet and bolt Bridwell placed on the original ascent. Atop Desmochada, as with every summit, the bivy was the main concern....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0377521782&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Josh Wharton leading the Wave Effect. Nate Opp

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Patagonia: Circus Pets on Aguja Desmochada


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a1ef4ede19&e=49344561f0> Aguja Desmochada

By Eli Simon, AAC

Just before dawn, Pete started leading the 5.10 pitch in the dark. About halfway up, while mantling around a bulge, he pulled out a huge, loose block and both Pete and the stone came tumbling down. Pete smashed his head, broke his headlamp, and took some chunks out of his hand, elbow, knee, and butt. He was pretty shaken, but some Percocets helped him continue.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ab0f2d7b58&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Aguja Desmochada from the east. Colin Haley

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Patagonia: Washington Route on Fitz Roy


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=9f8a4487a0&e=49344561f0> Kate Rutherford on the Washington Route

By Mikey Schaefer, AAC

Like so many good missions in Patagonia, it started with the painful task of changing our plane tickets. A possible good weather window was coming, so it was go-big-or-go- home time. A day and a thousand bucks later we were committed to trying a new route on Fitz Roy.….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a7b8995d50&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Kate Rutherford on the Washington Route. Mikey Schafer

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Patagonia: onsight free ascent of east face of Fitz Roy


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=d38a28ca6a&e=49344561f0> Fitz Roy
By Nicolas Favresse, Belgium

In a 36-hour roundtrip push from base camp, Sean Villanueva and I made an onsight free ascent of the east face of Fitz Roy. We mostly followed El Corazon, but to avoid some wet rock we started with the closest good-looking dry line, which was the Ferrari Route. The whole route is amazing, with mostly perfect cracks on a beautiful piece of rock. We were quite surprised that the ascent went as smoothly as it did. The route is very sustained in the 5.10–5.11 range, with a couple of 5.12 cruxes....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=001f10c995&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Sean Villanueva and Nico Favresse on pitch 19 of El Corazon. Paula Jones Volonte

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Patagonia: Re Puesto! on Cerro Pollone East


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3413a4db13&e=49344561f0> Cerro Pollone East

By Jim Toman, AAC

Foregoing Chalten’s legendary New Year’s Eve fiesta, Neil Kauffman and I launched into the hills. We caught a few hours of sleep at the Piedra Negra bivouac, grabbed our previously-cached gear, and headed over Paso Cuadrado and down onto the North Fitz Roy Glacier. As first light hit our objective, we sat back and studied our anticipated line to Cerro Pollone’s untouched eastern summit.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=2ebdc5ec97&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Re Puesto! on Cerro Pollone's eastern summit. Jim Toman

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Patagonia: A Fine Piece variation and traverse on Cerro Pollone


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=898dad14de&e=49344561f0> Cerro Pollone

By Blake Herrington, AAC

The rock is fantastic, and many of the middle pitches feature interesting knobs and pockets. The freeclimbing crux was a well-protected rightward crack switch on the 4th pitch that was about 5.11d/7a. The leader freed every pitch, with the follower sometimes A0-ing, pulling on gear, or doing poor-man’s jugging. The climbing from atop the pillar to the summit was in the vicinity of the 1949 first ascent route, some likely on new ground....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=7fcfe156eb&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Scott Bennett on a gendarme between the summits of Cerro Pollone. Blake Herrington

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Northern Patagonia: Valle Pirita and Mariposa


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0113dc8289&e=49344561f0> Ryan Huetter

By Ryan Huetter, AAC

Leeches, carnivorous bees, hacking through thick bamboo jungle on the approach: these are not what come to mind when you talk about Patagonia. But the mystery and secrecy surrounding the many hidden granite walls of the Turbio IV valley (which I also have heard called Valle Oscuro) piqued my interest, and in late January 2011 I found myself in Bariloche, Argentina, with Josh Garrison, preparing to go in with directions from a decade-old, hand-drawn map....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a33cff80c3&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Josh Garrison attempting a new route in the Mariposa Valley. Ryan Huetter

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Northern Patagonia: Pared de Profetas in Cochamó


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=abaf57bc38&e=49344561f0> Pared de Profetas

By Gerda Raffetseder, Austria

Stefan Brunner and I spent three weeks together in the Cochamó Valley at the end of January and beginning of February. We found a great line on the far right side of the Profetas Wall, which is on the opposite side of the valley from Mt. Trinidad.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e43bb9e5b0&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: The right side of Pared de Profetas. Gerda Raffetseder

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A lot more reports are online! <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8e3f413f7a&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8e3f413f7a&e=49344561f0> Pico Polaco <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8e3f413f7a&e=49344561f0> 

Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=6cf146dfe5&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=7b863d4587&e=49344561f0>  and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.

Photo: Ivan Rocamora leading on  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3961c6a038&e=49344561f0> Cheto Alpino, Pico Polaco. Gabriel Fava

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Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year (in July or August), the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the famous annual book for the permanent record-and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete-to publish ALL the big new routes-but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=364a37f8d3&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at  <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org?subject=new%20route> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III 


What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?-name of peak and route.
Where?-exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?-dates of the expedition.
Who?-names of climbers.
Why?-why did this climb interest
How hard?-difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

For photo guidelines and more, please click  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=95c4c44abf&e=49344561f0> here.

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