[CMCEmail] AAJ April 2012 Newsletter

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The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, April 2012

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=865c3e1d96&e=49344561f0> <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=865c3e1d96&e=49344561f0> 2011 AAJ cover <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=865c3e1d96&e=49344561f0>

What do China, Greenland, Bolivia, and Afghanistan have in common? The answer would likely stump 99.99% of the world's population, but I'm sure it's perfectly obvious to you: big mountains. Join one of Russia's most prolific first-ascent climbers, Alexander Ruchkin, on Greenland's huge rock spire, the Shark's Tooth. Then rope-up with the inimitable Japanese Giri Giri Boys on yet another alpine test piece, this one on China's Daddomain. While you're on a first-ascent binge, you might as well sample a few more continents. I'm sure you'll find something high, cold, and scary--just how you like it.

John Harlin III


China: Minya Konka Range, Daddomain (6,380m), Ame ni mo Makezu.


>From information provided by Hiroshi Hagiwara, Editor ROCK&SNOW, Japan

After setting up base camp, the team endured 10 days of solid bad weather before heading up in drizzle for a reconnaissance. Unable to see the face on Edgar clearly, they returned but during the descent caught a glimpse of Daddomain at the head of the valley. They were captivated and decided to go for it instead…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=63d47db189&e=49344561f0>

Photo: East face of Daddomain, with bivouacs marked. Takaaki Nagato


Greenland: Uummannaq and Upernavik region first ascents.


By Bob Shepton, Alpine Club, UK

Following our successful campaign in 2010, we returned in July 2011, with a strong group mainly of Italian guides, to blitz the Uummannaq and Upernavik regions, adding a number of routes. The group operated from Mariacristina Rapisardi’s super-yacht, Billy Budd…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=bce57536e1&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Pic Nic on south coast of Umiasugssuk. Dotted line is descent along grassy terraces. Michele Maggioni


Greenland: Saven Range, first attempt.


By Jim Gregson, Alpine Club, UK

I had seen these beautiful, little-explored mountains, which stand just north of the huge glacier Rolige Brae from a distance of 25km during previous visits to Paul Stern Land farther south (AAJ 2009 and 2011). Saven means “the saw” in Danish, and the range was named by geologists for its appearance when seen from the south…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0451093447&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Part of Saven Range from Alfheim Glacier to the north. From left to right: Peak Hymir, Peak Gymir, Breidablikk, and Ragnars Fjeld. Jim Gregson


Greenland: Shark’s Tooth (1,555m), Dance on Tiptoes.


By Alexander Ruchkin, Russia

With a temperature of -20°C, we quickly established base camp, cooked, and ate normally for the first time in two days, and then fell asleep, not forgetting to load our rifle and put it next to us with the pistol and flare gun, ready for a visit from a polar bear. We stored our 15kg of fresh fish and 5kg of fresh musk ox in a box 10m from the tent; the Inuit told us that the bears’ noses are so powerful, they can pick up scent from 20km away…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=6a6b45c5f4&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Mikhailov starts from final bivouac on northwest ridge of Shark’s Tooth. Below is Edward Bailey Glacier. Alexander Ruchkin


Greenland: Mt. Augustine Courtauld (ca 3,150m).


By Maxim Bouev, Russia/UK

Initially we also planned to attempt the second and third highest summits, Dome (3,683m) and Cone (3,669m), but we instead became interested in a 3,000+m summit southeast of the Gunnbjorns base camp. It was the last remaining unclimbed high mountain in the middle section of a tributary of the Woolley Glacier. The peak had been identified and meticulously photographed in 2009 and attempted the following year by Paul Rose’s expedition, which was defeated by deep soft snow…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c38db73ddb&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Augustine Courtauld from the northwest, showing route of first ascent. Maxim Bouev


Bolivia: Cordillera Real, overview and recent new routes.


By Erik Monasterio, New Zealand

It seems the number of climbers to Bolivia continues to decrease, despite the country offering one of the most stable weather patterns in the mountaineering world and high scope for new route development. In recent years most activity has been on the popular and often guided peaks of the Southern Cordillera Real, easily accessible from the capital: Huayna Potosi, Condoriri, and Illimani…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e06bae7870&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Peak 5,723m of Hancopiti group with Via Santiago on north face. Erik Monasterio


Bolivia: Cordillera Real, various ascents.

By Gregg Beisly, Bolivia

In June 2011 Baker and I climbed a new route up the south face of Point ca 5,600m on the southwest ridge of Huayna Potosi. The route is steeper and more demanding than the Yugoslav route on the left side of Huayna Potosi’s west face but is much shorter. There were sustained sections of 80°, steps of 90° ice, and mixed climbing up to M4. The upper half of the face was continuously steep and nearly all the pro was good rock placements…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3d367acf40&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Looking north to (A) Pt. ca 5,600m and route on south face climbed by Baker and Beisly (descending left skyline ridge). (B) Pt. Italia (ca 5,750m). (C) Huayna Potosi (6,088m). (D) Pico Milluni (5,500m). Gregg Beisly


Bolivia: Huancasayani Valley, various ascents.


By Marcin Kruczyk, Poland

Much geographical and historical research had already been done on this valley, and we used the map drawn by Chaladaj, published on the AAJ website with our report. Two years ago we had bad experiences with a local muleteer when trying to reach Puina from Pelechuco, so this time we hired a 4WD. We established base camp lower than in 2009, three hours walk up the Huancasayani Valley in a side cwm. It had the advantages of a nice stream and invisibility from the bottom of the main valley...(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=553503da0a&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Trata Tata from northwest. High snowy peak right is Hanako. Marcin Kruczyk


Afghanistan: Mandaras Valley, M3, south ridge.


By Slawomir Kawecki, Poland

In recent years the north side of the High Hindu Kush has again become accessible to climbers. There are beautiful peaks, untouched walls, and lonely valleys. There is also a lack of food, fuel, tourist infrastructure, mobile phone coverage and emergency services…(read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a2c8e2c46b&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Panorama south over Mandaras Valley from summit of M3. Klaudiusz Duda


A lot more reports are online!

Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=d3e12e8ad0&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4cd19d6cb8&e=49344561f0> and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.


Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year (in July or August), the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the famous annual book for the permanent record-and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete-to publish ALL the big new routes-but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=fc242ca2c1&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org?subject=new%20route> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III

What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?-name of peak and route.
Where?-exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?-dates of the expedition.
Who?-names of climbers.
Why?-why did this climb interest
How hard?-difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

For photo guidelines and more, please click <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=021767afdf&e=49344561f0> here.

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