[CMCEmail] AAJ June 2012 Newsletter

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Thu Jun 14 09:48:57 EDT 2012

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The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, June 2012

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=aabf77be6e&e=49344561f0> <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=aabf77be6e&e=49344561f0> 2011 AAJ cover <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=aabf77be6e&e=49344561f0> It's June, and AAJ 2012 is rushing to press. This year's edition will feature a special section: the Recon series. Wind Rivers aficionado Joe Kelsey has provided us with reconnaissance on the Winds' Titcomb Basin (see below).

Recon: Titcomb Basin, Wind Rivers Mountains, Wyoming
Spanning 80 miles of the Continental Divide, the Wind Rivers may offer America’s favorite wilderness climbing. Within the Winds is Titcomb Basin, which, while less popular than granite formations to the south, offers alpine peaks and idyllic camping that seem tailor-made for launching the AAJ’s new Recon series. These Recons will offer climbing portraits of America’s best mountains, complete with history, recommended routes, and a glimpse into the first-ascent potential...
—By Joe Kelsey

You'll have to wait to receive your print edition in the mail to read about the Titcomb Basin, but in the meantime, new reports are being uploaded every day - including a few from the Winds.


John Harlin III



Wyoming: Cirque of the Towers, Warrior I, The Candy Shop.

By Noah Gostout, Erik Rieger, and Drew Thayer, AAC

The authors' previous trip to the area - during which they broke several obvious holds and cleaned a number of loose blocks - led them to believe that their objective had not previously been climbed; they describe it as "an adventurous route to be climbed with discretion." Read more. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=f9362aef94&e=49344561f0>

Photo: The Candy Shop on Warrior I. First five pitches are likely new. Drew Thayer


Wyoming: Wind River Mountains, Titcomb Basin, new routes on Elephant Head, Fremont Peak, and Mt. Sacagawea.


By Mark Jenkins, AAC

Jenkins got to his favorite mountain range twice last summer - once with legendary Winds guidebook author Joe Kelsey - and points out that while the hike in, the approach, and the routes themselves are often much longer than elsewhere in the Rockies, the backcountry alpinist is rewarded with countless new routes to explore. Read more. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=779dc25820&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Ken Driese climbing Packrat, on Elephant Head. Mark Jenkins


Wyoming: Ambush Peak, I Think Therefore I Ambush.


By Chris Barlow, AAC

The peak's history began with Fred Beckey's first ascent in 1969, and it has since seen more than a dozen new routes. Read more. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8dbe614941&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Ambush Peak, showing I Think Therefore I Ambush. James Garrett


California: Merriam Peak, two new routes.


By Peter Croft, AAC

Croft and his partner were pleasantly surprised by the ease with which they established a new route; their climb reminded them of something out of a Tolkien epic. Read more. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3a50148d01&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Peter Croft enjoying perfect Sierra granite on one of his north buttress routes on Merriam Peak. Lisa Rand


Alaska: Voyager Peak (12,213'), south face, To the Center.


By Graham Zimmerman, AAC

Zimmerman's objective was the rarely-visited northwest fork of the Lacuna Glacier; after a first ascent, he and his partner were motivated for their thirteen-hour trek to base camp by the prospect of a hot meal and, perhaps more importantly, whiskey. Read more. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=bf75952676&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Voyager Peak from southeast. (Red) To the Center. (Blue) Attempt and high point on central rib/Nebula Arête. (Green) Attempt and high point on southeast ridge/Lunar Spur (bivouac marked). (Orange) Rappel descent used on all three attempts. Mark Allen


Alaska: Deep in the Alaskan Bush.


By Hayden Kennedy, AAC

How could Kennedy turn down a ten-day trip to the super-remote Brooks Range with photographer/climber Corey Rich and Tommy Caldwell? The trip came together at the last minute, but they made the most of it despite gnarly conditions. Read more. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=84287cb8cc&e=49344561f0>

Photo: Looking for Arrigetch objectives from the air. South face of Xanadu is left of strut; Deep in the Alaskan Bush is right. Corey Rich


A lot more reports are online!

Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=13ba382983&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=6a1b56251c&e=49344561f0> and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.


Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year (in July or August), the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the famous annual book for the permanent record-and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete-to publish ALL the big new routes-but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=13c67e521b&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org?subject=new%20route> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III

What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?-name of peak and route.
Where?-exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?-dates of the expedition.
Who?-names of climbers.
Why?-why did this climb interest
How hard?-difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

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