[CMCEmail] AAJ February 2012 Newsletter

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 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=bfd3222576&e=49344561f0> AAJ Online - click to display images


 The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, February 2012



 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=90767883ca&e=49344561f0>  2011 AAJ cover <http://gallery.mailchimp.com/60afa02764806293a37aacfda/files/AAJ_frontcover_aaj2011.jpg>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=90767883ca&e=49344561f0> Greetings from South America.

Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk just completed their magnificent cleansing of Cerro Torre, but that's a year ahead of this newsletter.

Instead, this edition takes you to more northern regions of the southern continent, including Peru, Bolivia, Venezuela, and Guyana. We'll also take a quick detour to Nepal for a feature article from the late, great Joe Puryear. Joe was one of our favorite people at the AAJ, and we miss him so much that we've included his obituary in this newsletter.

While it's a bit late for you to report your new routes from 2011 (the deadline has passed), we'd hate for the AAJ to be historically incomplete. If you're quick about it, we might still be able to include unreported routes put up by you or your friends.

After a decade of editing the AAJ, this will be my last edition. There will be time for goodbyes later, as I'll be here until this issue goes to the printer in June. In the meantime, if you're passionate for words, mountains, and climbing, perhaps you'd like to become my replacement? The job is expanding to include responsibility for various Club publications and will be located at Club headquarters in Golden, Colorado. Please have a look at the press release <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a8cd59078f&e=49344561f0>  and job description <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=83e877ecdd&e=49344561f0> . This should be an exciting position.

In the meantime, enjoy another world tour....

Mid-winter's greetings,
John Harlin III
Editor

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Feature article: Takargo


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4a022e8db0&e=49344561f0> Takargo
By Joe Puryear

Feature article: Nepal's Rolwaling Valley delivers a paradise of unclimbed waterfall ice and a 6,771-meter virgin summit. 

The screech of my crampons against rock echoed across the ravine. I was keenly aware of the double-zero Camalot three meters below and a half-driven Lost Arrow piton just below that. These were the only pieces that could possibly keep me off the deck. My mind raced as I thought of an old saying. Rule #1: don’t fall while ice climbing.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=12ed530a80&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: David Gottlieb on the ridge crest of Takargo. Joe Puryear

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Guyana: Morangma


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e0c8b5826e&e=49344561f0> Morangma

By Mike Libecki, AAC

The goal was to find a way through the jungle to a large tepui named Weiassipu, climb its first ascent, and explore its unknown sinkholes. Neither the videographer nor the main character had any climbing experience. I had a gut feeling of disaster before we left home....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=fd173b3356&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: The new route on Morangma. Mike Libecki

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Venezuela: Acopan Tepui, Chicatino and Takamajaka

 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=955d14a0e7&e=49344561f0> Acopan Tepui


By Ruediger Helling

After two days of jungle experience to explore the base of Acopan, guided by the very friendly local chief Leonardo, we went for a major pillar beside a huge cascade, where, in December 2009, a Polish-Venezuelan team established Lapa, Yuca y Kachiri. That route, however, avoided the impressive upper headwall and moved left around half height to a gully to the top.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3ecb9782dc&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: The southeast face of Acopan Tepui. Ruediger Helling

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Venezuela: Adankasima Tepui, El Camino del Danto


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=06e08d17d9&e=49344561f0> Adankasima

By Cheo Garcìa

The Adankasima Tepui, in the heart of the Bolivar State, is one of 13 tepuis comprising the Chimanta Massif. It is a magical land, where miles and miles of tepuis and sandstone walls make us forget the chores and daily problems of the city. The magic overcomes us. Adankasima had no recorded visits....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=38ff97d287&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: El Camino del Dantao on Adankasima Tepui. Cheo Garcìa, climtepuyes.com

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Bolivia: Quimsa Cruz, Monte Rosa, Minute Men, etc.


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=338775c3f3&e=49344561f0> Quimsa Cruz

By Everett Phillips

The northern fringe of the Quimsa Cruz comprises Bolivia’s stash of alpine granite. North of the mining town of Villoco, spires and gendarme-protected ridges occupy the sky between 4,000m and 5,000m. Josh Garrison and I visited this area twice between May 1–10. The information we’d collected online and around La Paz before our trip suggested that some of the best climbing was located one ridge north of Villoco….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=1f8b3c1e7c&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Saturno from the west. Everett Phillips

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Bolivia: Cordillera Real, Serkhe Khollu, Chamaka


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=9b1741b7da&e=49344561f0> Chamaka on Serkhe Khollu
By Florian Hill

Not even three meters wide, the icefall soared vertically upward. We sorted our gear, racked up, and stepped into unknown terrain. On the second pitch, the ice surprised us with poor quality, and every swing of our picks at that altitude felt like hard work. On the fourth pitch, the ice tube unexpectedly ended, forcing us onto sparsely protected mixed terrain with brittle ice....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3276808cf6&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Robert Rauch leading on Chamaka. florianhill.com

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Bolivia: Illimani, Deliver Me


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a94af00e23&e=49344561f0> Illimani

By Florian Hill and Robert Rauch

The initial passages on the southwest ridge of Illimani were threatened by large, broken seracs and had ice to 90°, difficult mixed climbing, and rotten 5th-class rock. Above, they joined much easier terrain on the Sanchez-Mesili southwest ridge route, and endured an unplanned bivy after 17+ hours and about 1,000m....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=cbc570dc37&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Florian Hill high on Illimani. florianhill.com

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Peru: Huaguruncho, Llama Karma to summit ridge


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c2fa35e8cc&e=49344561f0> Huaguruncho

By Tom Chamberlain

Our objective was the first ascent of the southwest face of Huaguruncho (5,730m), by the same line we had attempted in 2008 with Olly Metherell. Barton had also previously visited on three other occasions between 2003 and 2006....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8d4ad1ecb3&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Llama Karma on Huaguruncho. Tom Chamberlain

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Peru: Huantsan West and Huantsan North


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=6ec4329787&e=49344561f0> Huantsan North

By Sophie Denis, AAC

The next day, carrying little, we approached the bottom of the face. It was a mess. Hip-deep snow made trail-breaking a challenge and increased the crevasse difficulties, but we finally crossed the bergschrund and began climbing the south face of the west ridge of Huantsan’s west summit. A nice couloir, 50–60° with deep snow and loose rocks, steepened to 70°, 80°, and 90°. At the end of the last pitch, we tunneled through a hanging mushroom, continued to the summit at 7 p.m., and endured an open bivouac....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=6e07768a1b&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Illusion, on Huantsan North. Sophie Denis

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In Memoriam: Joseph Puryear, 1973-2010


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=21e4f82e6b&e=49344561f0> Joe Puryear

By Mark Westman

Joe was one of the authentic talents of the American climbing community, an inspiration to friends and strangers alike, and he lived an extraordinary life of pure devotion to all that he loved. He was only 37 years old....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=51f595c33a&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Joe Puryear.  David Gottlieb

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A lot more reports are online! <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=d6c1caf272&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=d6c1caf272&e=49344561f0> Pedra do Elefante <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=d6c1caf272&e=49344561f0> 

Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=813bea7702&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4fe4b96ac0&e=49344561f0>  and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.

Photo: Brazil's  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3393166841&e=49344561f0> Pedra do Elefante, by Ana Alvarenga. Otto Faber Jr. 

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Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year (in July or August), the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the famous annual book for the permanent record-and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete-to publish ALL the big new routes-but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=28b8b96b13&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at  <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org?subject=new%20route> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III 


What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?-name of peak and route.
Where?-exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?-dates of the expedition.
Who?-names of climbers.
Why?-why did this climb interest
How hard?-difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

For photo guidelines and more, please click  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ec0425b4e2&e=49344561f0> here.

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