[CMCEmail] AAJ November Newsletter

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 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=19e77b6148&e=49344561f0> AAJ Online - click to display images


 The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, November 2011



 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=f2b10a0b91&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=f2b10a0b91&e=49344561f0> 2011 AAJ cover <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=f2b10a0b91&e=49344561f0> Welcome back to the AAJ Newsletter. The AAJ's editors took the summer off to complete our own climbing projects. In my case, it was to hike around Switzerland's borders. Kelly went to Pakistan. Lindsay climbed in the UK and Germany. But now we're sitting on our behinds in front of the computer (except Kelly, who is in Yosemite). This newsletter will catch you up on a few of the North American postings on AAJ Online <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=11d0679ce3&e=49344561f0> , including a couple of feature articles from the 2011 AAJ. Remember, what you see below is just a sample: to enjoy all the recent additions, click on "New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=b8e00dcafc&e=49344561f0> " and scroll down. Or go to "Reports <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=f1f3a4dff7&e=49344561f0> " and search by region. If you are an AAJ contributor or AAC member and have not yet received your copy of the 2011 AAJ, please let us know.

Cheers,
John Harlin III
Editor

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Mt. Logan: South face, I-TO


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ae9cab7a76&e=49344561f0> Mt. LoganError! Filename not specified.
By Katsutaka "Jumbo" Yokoyama

Feature article: The first ascent of the immense south face of Mt. Logan, Canada.

It was July 2009 when Christian Beckwith showed me a picture of Mt. Logan. Captioned “The 3,000-meter unclimbed south face,” it immediately captured my imagination. The attractive phrase was part of it, but so was the mysteriousness of the mountain itself: I had absolutely no idea where Logan was. My climbing partners and I have climbed in the Alaska Range over the last several years....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ddd47356c0&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: The east ridge of Mt. Logan, used as the descent. Yasushi Okada

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Yosemite: Half Dome + El Cap


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=3e7f3ef5ec&e=49344561f0> Honnold
By Alex Honnold

Feature article: In today’s Yosemite, a good half-day is an ascent of Half Dome and El Cap, both solo. But climbing three El Cap routes still takes a full day.

Every year in Yosemite seems to bring fresh challenges, starting five years ago with my first long trad climbs and continuing year after year into longer and harder routes. This summer in the Valley was my season of aid climbing. And since I have not yet learned how to nail or haul, aid climbing for me means speed climbing. The whole season can be summed up in two glorious days. ….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0d33339e29&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Alex Honnold walking from Half Dome to El Cap.  Tom Evans

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Utah: The Titan + Echo Tower <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0234c988f4&e=49344561f0> 

Titan


By Paul Gagner, AAC

The Titan, Gimp Warfare; Echo Tower, Sidewinder.

In early March, Jeremy Aslaksen and I explored the virtually unclimbed east face of the Titan in the Fisher Towers. The only route on the face is an old Jim Beyer route, World’s End, which climbs the extreme left margin. After climbing four new pitches we hustled back to the car in an amazing rain, thunder, and lightning storm. A return trip in April was thwarted when I pulled off a block on a downclimb while hiking back to the car, fell 10 feet, and broke three bones in my foot. Over the next few months Jeremy added a new pitch, solo, to keep up the progress. After my foot healed enough to climb again, we returned in August, in 100°+ temperatures, to finish Gimp Warfare (8 pitches, VI 5.10 A3). The route is characterized by much beaking....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=fd27a86f05&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Pitch 7 of Gimp Warfare on the Titan.  Jeremy Aslaksen

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Yosemite:


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=99e8476627&e=49344561f0> Houlding
By Leo Houlding, UK

El Capitan, The Prophet. 

On October 27, Jason Pickles and I completed our nine-year quest to establish a new free route on El Cap. The Prophet (E9 7a, 5.13d R) is on the far right side of El Cap, home to many of Yosemite’s scariest and most technical aid routes. Jason and I made it almost halfway up the route in 2001, in a ground-up attempt using no bolts, no aid, no port-a-ledge, and no fixed rope that ultimately proved too ambitious. After several other unsuccessful ground-up attempts, we returned in 2010 for a more conventional, top-down approach. We invested many days preparing ourselves and the climb before, at long last, a successful redpoint.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a6b74a6aab&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Leo Houlding on the Beauty Pitch. Alastair Lee

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North Carolina: Laurel Knob


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8c327e30a5&e=49344561f0> Laurel Knob
By Arno Ilgner, AAC

Laurel Knob, Defective Sonar.

Laurel Knob was purchased by the Carolina Climbers Coalition in 2006, which opened the cliff to legal first ascent activity. It is a beautiful granite dome hosting primarily slab climbing with some vertical sections. At the top it rounds off, as most domes do, into lower-angled fourth-class. I had not climbed on Laurel, but was interested in checking out potential new lines. Just left of the prominent right-arching feature of Fathom, I saw a beautiful, steep, diagonal crack midway up the face. ….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ce0fdf05cc&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Defective Sonar. Dominic Smith

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Nevada: Lady Wilson's Bush


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=2f093d0f01&e=49344561f0> Wilson
By Mark Jenkins, AAC

Mt. Wilson, Lady Wilson’s Bush.

This climb is a long, sketchy-but-easy, rockaineering ascent of Mt. Wilson. In mid-April, Oliver Deshler and I hiked two hours to the base, up a gully toward Resolution Arête and Inti Watana, past the Inti Watana ravine, and bushwacked another 100′ up the main gully. Then we hooked left, scrambling up to a broad shelf with an obvious vertical crack (looking south you can see the ponderosa on the shelf at the base of Resolution). From there we climbed 13 pitches to the summit....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=26ef58c975&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Lady Wilson's Bush on Mt. Wilson. Mark Jenkins

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Colorado: Longs Peak Diamond


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c7f4907f09&e=49344561f0> Diamond
By Chris Weidner, AAC

Longs Peak, Hearts and Arrows.

Bruce Miller and I spent nine days on Longs Peak between July 27 and August 26 establishing Hearts and Arrows, a free route up the center of the Diamond. We climbed the first four pitches of the Enos Mills Wall (V 5.11 A3), already freed at 5.10, with a short new leftward traverse to a stance. We then added a new 45′ face traverse pitch that climbs leftward into a prominent right- facing corner on Jack of Diamonds (V 5.10c A4). We added two bolts and one pin on this 5.11c traverse. The route overhangs slightly for the next 350′....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=5b3e04e4f9&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Bruce Miller on Hearts and Arrows. Chris Weidner

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Mt. Logan and Mt. Augusta


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=482c11dbc9&e=49344561f0> Pabuk Kang
By Manu Pellissier, GMHM, France

Mt. Augusta, Northeast Pillar, and Mt. Logan.

In mid-May we were hanging around Haines Junction, looking for Bill Karman, our helicopter pilot, who was supposed to take us to the Seward Glacier at the base of the Hummingbird Ridge, the main goal of our expedition. We walked into a restaurant, and, to our surprise, a man looked at us and said, “You must be the French guys?” We’d found Bill. Two days later, thanks to Bill, as well as Andy Williams with his airplane, all seven of us and our gear were at base camp. The south face of Mt. Logan is so massive, it is hard to comprehend its true scale....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=837ddda9bd&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: The sit-start attempt on the Hummingbird Ridge. GMHM

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A lot more reports are online!

Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=7065da85bc&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=5aab7a6051&e=49344561f0>  and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.
 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=df0403ece5&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=df0403ece5&e=49344561f0> Desert Spires <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=df0403ece5&e=49344561f0> 
Photo: Freeing the Southeast Face Route on Mt. Proboscis.  Emily Stifler

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Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year (in July or August), the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the famous annual book for the permanent record-and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete-to publish ALL the big new routes-but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=19d209a657&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at  <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III 


What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?-name of peak and route.
Where?-exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?-dates of the expedition.
Who?-names of climbers.
Why?-why did this climb interest
How hard?-difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

For photo guidelines and more, please click  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0647d37dd7&e=49344561f0> here.

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