[CMCEmail] American Alpine Journal March Newsletter - Himalaya for Dirtbags?

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Fri Mar 11 09:52:33 EST 2011

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The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, March 2011
The Himalaya for Dirtbags?

2010 AAJ cover <http://gallery.mailchimp.com/60afa02764806293a37aacfda/images/AAJ2010cover_sm_.jpg> Here is your March sampling of new reports from AAJ Online <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=628318172f&e=49344561f0> . Remember, this is just a sample: to see all the recent additions, click on "New" and scroll down. Or go to "Reports" and search by region. We're sorry that the website is still operating very slowly. We will find a speed-enhancing solution in due time. In the meantime, we ask for your patience because the results are worth the wait.

Before we get to the March reports, we'd like to get your insights for a feature article we're working on. Most of you have either climbed in the greater Himalaya or you hope to. But many are frustrated by the expense and red tape that often bedevil such expeditions. Where would you go to find a "Himalayan experience" with the minimum of cost and bureaucratic hassle? Or, even if you have plenty of money, where would you send a dirtbag climber looking for high peaks, rich culture, and new routes on the cheap? (Interpret "Himalayan experience" however you like, but please tell us what it means to you.) We'll use your feedback to make this a more useful story. Please write: john at johnharlin.net <mailto:john at johnharlin.net?subject=Himalaya%20for%20dirtbags>

Thanks, and happy climbing.
John Harlin III


California: Fourth Needle, East Face

<file:///\\Users\johnharlin\Documents\AAC%20Master%20Folder\AAJ.org%20Umbrella\AAJ%20Online%20Master%20Folder\Newsletters%20AAJ\2011%20Newsletters\Photos%20for%20newsletter%20January%202011\DuBois-Hayden-Ryer-RLweb-900x600.jpg> <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8fee483138&e=49344561f0> Fourth Needle
By Bernd Zeugswetter

Over the summer, Greg Corliss, my wife Hjördis Rickert, and I climbed a new line on the thin spire just south of the Third Needle along the Whitney Crest. The route goes through two roofs and corners on the east face of the narrow pillar. The rock gets better and better going up. We used a little aid through the roof sections, but it may well go free. As it stands, the free climbing pitches are good fun and go from 3rd-class scrambling to about 5.11.... <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4cbd494d0d&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Whitney Crest. Bernd Zeugswetter


Norway: Kvasloya Island, Blammanen

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=35349558cc&e=49344561f0> Fichtinger
By Hansjörg Auer, Austria

My eyes continually strayed left across the wall to Bongo Bar. I could see that this section of face held immense potential for difficult, free, multi-pitch routes.
But after two days on the wall we started to feel a little downhearted. The third, steeply overhanging pitch of Bongo Bar was completely wet. Free climbing it was impossible. But why not try traversing left onto virgin territory? What about a link-up of the routes Bongo Bar and Atlantis? The latter was one of the original routes to breach the north face…. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=346aad4124&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Hansjörg Auer on the traverse. Reinhard Fichtinger


Pakistan: Hushe, Ladies First

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=5cdd8d4531&e=49344561f0> Fedme

By Francesc Estorach, FEDME, Spain

Under the direction of mountain guide Simon Elias, a female national climbing team from FEDME (Spanish mountaineering and climbing federation) made three ascents from the Hushe Valley. First they spent a month living with the women of Hushe, getting to know their needs. The main climbing objective was a fine spire west of the lower Chogolisa Glacier, which local people had dubbed Sebas Tower as a tribute to Alvaro for his help with bettering the lot of Hushe people through an NGO project.... <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=395d80268e&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Four team members. FEDME


California: Dana Plateau, Chamberlin

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a3e1e7b825&e=49344561f0> Mt. Chamberlin
By Josh Finkelstein, AAC

In July, Chris Brown and I set our sights on a large, east-facing dihedral on a broad wall just northeast of the famed Third Pillar of Dana. When viewed from the edge of the Dana Plateau, this “wall” reveals itself as a long and complex ridge reaching east. A search of the AAJ online database returned no previous routes. This wall certainly holds potential for many other interesting lines…. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c5442dafba&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Northeast face of Mt. Chamberlin. Chris Brown


Montana: Beartooths

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c0ef4daf58&e=49344561f0> Bullet, by Doug Shepperd
By Doug Shepherd, Colorado

Over three trips in October and November, Aaron Mulkey and I looked for ice and mixed climbs in the Beartooths. We managed a major route each trip, which made the long and remote approaches worthwhile. After speaking with several Beartooth climbers, we think these routes are likely new. On Spirit Mountain, in Rock Creek Canyon, the Central Chimney (2,200′, V WI4 M6R) climbs the large chimney right of Lunar Arête. We found compact rock that did not easily yield protection or belays. On the Bullet, also in Rock Creek, Daniel Burson, Aaron, and I established Funeral For Another Friend (IV WI4 M6+)…. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=08af2970b2&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Spirit Mountain. Doug Shepherd


Russia: Altai, Taban Bogdo, Ak Alakha

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=2d6a504c75&e=49344561f0> Ak Alakha, by Michal Kleslo
By Michal Kleslo, Czech Republic

Forty kilometers west of the Taban Bogdo Range, close to the triple border point of Russia, Kazakhstan, and China, lies the Ak Alakha. Prior to our expedition, this area had never been visited by mountaineers, only scientists and military. Due to its proximity to China, the region was closed to the public until 1991…. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e56c4b4349&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Ak Alakha. Michal Kleslo


Yosemite: Liberty Cap

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e4355a48a7&e=49344561f0> Liberty Cap, by Joe Hornof
By Josh Mucci

In late June, Steve Bosque and I completed a 13-pitch independent line on the west face of Liberty Cap. The route follows a long crack system that shoots straight through the huge white scar, the wall’s most prominent feature. Steve and his wife, Paula, started the climb in 2004. Steve mentioned the line in early spring 2010 and we headed straight for it, replacing the fixed lines and establishing a 4th pitch, which brought us to the base of the scar. We fixed and came back in late June for the final push. We were greeted by impeccable cracks cutting through the bulletproof rockscar…. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c1642b0e98&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Scarface on LIberty Cap. Joe Hornof/qitnl.coom


Sequoia National Park: Tamarack

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=f0ffbfe4bd&e=49344561f0> Tamarack Lake by Brandon Thau
By Brandon Thau

On a winter trans-Sierra attempt in the coldest week of 2007, we spotted a beautiful granite tower, surrounded by snow and set against a blue sky above Tamarack Lake. Even from a distance, we could see scoops, knobs, and chickenheads. It was like falling upon an unclimbed Charlotte Dome. We returned in the summer and established the first route on the Prism (our name for the tower). The Left Facet (13 pitches, 5.10a R) starts on the lowest part of the tower and follows the left skyline to the pointy summit block. The route climbs featured slabs, cracks, runnels, and a steep face up high. Once atop the summit block we were surprised that the climb wasn’t over…. <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ee0cfdea5a&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: New climbs above Tamarack Lake. Brandon Thau


Washington: Le Petit Cheval

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ac1ff2ad0e&e=49344561f0> Le Petit Cheval
By Ian Nicholson, AAC

Chris McNamara and I climbed a new route, First Amendment (IV 5.11a), in September 2009, just right of center on Le Petit Cheval’s northwest face. The rock was excellent but, as is normal for the area, many cracks were filled with dirt.… <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c66e669e3e&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Le Petit Cheval. Ian Nicholson


A lot more reports are online!

<http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ff7b0012a5&e=49344561f0> <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ff7b0012a5&e=49344561f0> Ala Archa <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ff7b0012a5&e=49344561f0>
Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=7db5dddb5a&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=6e363c7ee4&e=49344561f0> and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.

Photo: Ice runnel on Long Way Home, Baylyan Bashi, Ala Archa, Kyrgyzstan. Sergey Dashkevich


Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year, the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the annual book for the permanent record--and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete--to publish ALL the big new routes--but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=7fd5028cca&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III

What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?--name of peak and route.
Where?--exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?--dates of the expedition.
Who?--names of climbers.
Why?--why did this climb interest
How hard?--difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

For photo guidelines and more, please click <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=d0889583b8&e=49344561f0> here.

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