[CMCEmail] AAJ December 2011 Newsletter

[CMCEmail@Californiamountaineer.com]

 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ea4b934b7f&e=49344561f0> AAJ Online - click to display images


 The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, December 2011



 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=1cce5048fd&e=49344561f0>  2011 AAJ cover <http://gallery.mailchimp.com/60afa02764806293a37aacfda/files/AAJ_frontcover_aaj2011.jpg>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=1cce5048fd&e=49344561f0> Snow is falling, nights are long, and you know the drill: it’s time to write new-route reports for the 2012 AAJ. It’s easy. Just sharpen a pencil, dust off your Kodachromes, and tell us what you did. If you climbed a long new route in 2011, we really need to hear from you as soon as possible—PLEASE!  We can only be the historical record if you supply us with the history to record.
 
Even if you haven’t climbed a new route in 2011, please think about your friends and what they’ve done. Anything new? Then give us a lead and we’ll follow up on it.
 
The how, where, and why is all spelled out in the column to the right == <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=f3b7b67d27&e=49344561f0> >>
 
Meanwhile, here is a selection of inspiring climbs from Alaska and Canada last year. Remember, what you see below is just a sample: to enjoy all the recent additions, click on "New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=2e58911496&e=49344561f0> " and scroll down. Or go to "Reports <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=1ce852bea9&e=49344561f0> " and search by region. If you are an AAJ contributor or AAC member and have not yet received your copy of the 2011 AAJ, please let us know.

Cheers,
John Harlin III
Editor

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Alaska: Dracula on Mt. Foraker


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=63ad6dc29d&e=49344561f0> DraculaError! Filename not specified.
By Bjørn-Eivind Aartun

Feature article: Seventy-one sleepless hours during a first ascent on the southeast face of Mt. Foraker, in the Alaska Range. 

Sometimes you meet someone who easily shares your dreams. On first meeting Colin Haley I could see that he was an open minded, highly motivated climber not easily distracted by mere obstacles. He was keen to explore all the possibilities within singlepush climbing....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=053e712809&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Nearing the end of the "never-ending" ice slopes. Bjorn-Eivind Aartun

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Alaska: Swamp Donkey Express on Moose's Tooth


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=aa1b502cef&e=49344561f0> Wilkinson Mooses
By Freddie Wilkinson, AAC

Zack Smith, Renan Ozturk, and I flew in to the Ruth Gorge on May 17, psyched to find perfect conditions: hard freezes at night but warm enough daytime temps to comfortably wear rock shoes. After a day to pack and scope, we left basecamp at 6 a.m. to do the dangerous approach to the Root Canal camp, beneath the south face of the Moose’s Tooth, in the morning shade….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=05e57b3d11&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Renan Ozturk below the Bleeder Pitch. Zack Smith

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Alaska: summit and sea on Mt. St. Elias

 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=40950ba80b&e=49344561f0> Inglis St. Elias


By Peter Inglis, AAC

At 18,008′ and 12 miles from salt water, Mt. St. Elias offers the world’s biggest summit to sea drop. Canadians Marcus Warring and Ryan Bougie and I (Telluride, CO) wanted to climb the southwest ridge (Harvard Route) and then ski as much of the mountain as we could. Although parts of this route have been skied and climbed, according to my research, no one has completed the entire route both up and down.....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=560d92b28b&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Overlooking Icy Bay from St. Elias.  Peter Inglis

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Alaska: Dicktation on Snider Peak


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=53b0aaa5a1&e=49344561f0> Henspeter Snider
By Mark Henspeter

Growing up in the heart of the Wrangell Mountains in interior Alaska, I have always had a penchant for vertical escape. My friend John Giraldo also shares this interest, and together we spent our teenage years pushing ourselves on little-known peaks in the Wrangell and Chugach mountains. In 2009, at age 19, we mustered the courage to try a new challenge: Snider Peak......  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=045849cb5d&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Dicktation on Snider Peak. Mark Henspeter

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Alaska: Eye Tooth


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=415cccef78&e=49344561f0> Vilhauer Eye Tooth
By Jared Vilhauer, AAC

During the last two weeks of April, Tim Dittmann, Dave Ahrens, and I attempted a new route on the west face of the Eye Tooth. We started up the obvious cleft between the Orgler route (Dream in the Spirit of Mugs) and the Talkeetna Standard. After the initial snow slopes, we roped up at the base of a chimney system cutting through the first rock band….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=039d4f0510&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Ice hose on the Eye Tooth. Jared Vilhauer

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Alaska: northwest face of Mt. Drum


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=139d24fb5a&e=49344561f0> Prittie Drum
By Willi Prittie, AAC

On March 17, Dave Johnston and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the northwest face of 12,010′ Mt. Drum in Alaska’s Wrangell Mountains. This mountain is well known to anyone who has driven the Richardson or Tok highways, as it is the farthest north- western outlier of the Wrangells. I fell under its spell and felt compelled to plan a trip to come to know a little of this huge massif....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=51d2c5852b&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Dave Johnson below Mt. Drum. Willi Prittie

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Alaska: Vitalogy on Mt. Bradley


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=b65e2c1093&e=49344561f0> Allen Bradley
By Mark Allen, AAC

Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley. We made an initial attempt on March 31. On the evening of April 2, we left camp carrying 40 hours of food and fuel in a 20-pound second’s pack and a 15-pound leader’s pack....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=79e7aed9d1&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Mt. Bradley from the southeast. Clifford Cochran

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Canada: Arctic Monkeys on Welshman's Peak


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=1b1dd142f9&e=49344561f0> Welshman's Peak
By Mike "Twid" Turner, Wales

I had been itching to return for more than ten years to try this route. Located on the prominent buttress left of Great Sail Peak, our 1,100m wall was guarded by 300m of tricky mixed terrain. The climbing on the wall proper was difficult aid with most pitches requiring pegs, hooks, and beaks. ....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=9131c3da60&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Arctic Monkeys on Welshman's Peak. Twid Turner

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Canada: Emperor Face on Mt. Robson


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=775a518c28&e=49344561f0> Kruk Robson
By Jason Kruk, Canada

On Friday June 18, after deejaying the Test of Metal blockparty in Squamish, I hopped in my truck and drove ten hours through the night to meet JR in the Robson parking lot.
Earlier in the year I’d pulled a tendon pulley in my middle finger, and so ice tools were the first things I could reasonably grab. And so if alpine climbing was the only thing in condition for me, there was one guy I knew I needed to contact: Jon Walsh, a.k.a. Jonny Red (JR). He is my total hero....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=5ba5d12d68&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: The Kruk-Walsh line on Mt. Robson's Emperor Face. Jon Walsh

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Canada: Rockies Summary


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c1c20732a5&e=49344561f0> Kruk Robson action
By Raphael Slawinski, Canada

After a promising spring that saw a trio of big new ice lines on Tangle Ridge (see AAJ 2010), followed by a new line on the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson (above), the summer was a bit of a disappointment. The lackluster season can be at least partly blamed on the weather. Dana Ruddy and Eamonn Walsh pulled off one of the more interesting projects of the summer, traversing the southern Ramparts in the backcountry of Jasper National Park....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=5ac54cd61f&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Jon Walsh on Mt. Robson's Emperor Face. Jason Kruk

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A lot more reports are online! <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4f8179efc3&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4f8179efc3&e=49344561f0> Turret's Syndrom <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=4f8179efc3&e=49344561f0> 

Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=298deac576&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c4c53309e7&e=49344561f0>  and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.

Photo: Approaching the wet offwidth on  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=d732229d5c&e=49344561f0> Turret's Syndrome, Selkirk Mountains. Andrew Boyd

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Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year (in July or August), the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the famous annual book for the permanent record-and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete-to publish ALL the big new routes-but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a08f15fb5f&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at  <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org?subject=new%20route> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III 


What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?-name of peak and route.
Where?-exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?-dates of the expedition.
Who?-names of climbers.
Why?-why did this climb interest
How hard?-difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

For photo guidelines and more, please click  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a7619fa40c&e=49344561f0> here.

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