[CMCEmail] AAJ April 2011 Newsletter

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 The American Alpine Journal Newsletter, April 2011



 2010 AAJ cover <http://gallery.mailchimp.com/60afa02764806293a37aacfda/images/AAJ2010cover_sm_.jpg> Here is your April sampling of new reports from AAJ Online. Remember, this is just a sample: to see all the recent additions, click on "New" and scroll down. Or go to "Reports" and search by region. We're sorry that the website is still operating very slowly. We will find a speed-enhancing solution in due time. In the meantime, we ask for your patience because the results are worth the wait.

Cheers,
John Harlin III
Editor

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Alaska: Mt. Bradley, Vitalogy


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0476202812&e=49344561f0> Allen-Bradley-Cochran-RL-webnews  <file:///\\Users\johnharlin\Documents\AAC%20Master%20Folder\AAJ.org%20Umbrella\AAJ%20Online%20Master%20Folder\Newsletters%20AAJ\2011%20Newsletters\Photos%20for%20newsletter%20January%202011\DuBois-Hayden-Ryer-RLweb-900x600.jpg> 
By Mark Allen, AAC

Graham Zimmerman and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on March 28, and soon spotted a virgin line on the southeast buttress of Mt. Bradley. On the evening of April 2, we left camp with 40 hours of food and fuel in a 20-pound second’s pack and a 15-pound leader’s pack, regained our highpoint and established five more pitches. Mid-day we bivied on a prow, sheltered from what loomed above.... (read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8dc4b26539&e=49344561f0> 
Photo: Mt. Bradley from the southeast. Clifford Cochran

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Nepal: Janak East Summit


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e0d7f191e9&e=49344561f0> Griffin-Janak-RL-webnews
By Hiroshi Hagiwara, chief editor ROCK and Snow, Japan

A six-member team from Aoyamagakuin University Alpine Club tried to climb the virgin East Summit of Janak (7,041m) via the route on the right side of the south face attempted in 2005 by Slovenians Miha Habjan and Andrej Stremfelj. Unlike the Slovenian duo, the team operated in heavyweight style, using climbing Sherpas and fixed rope…. (read more) <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=0d511531be&e=49344561f0> 
Photo: Janak from the upper Broken Glacier. Lindsay Griffin

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Alaska: St. Elias Mountains, Peak 10,510' <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=587b28d012&e=49344561f0> 

Peak 10,510


By John Kelley

In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the likely first ascent of Peak 10,510′, across the glacier northwest of Mt. Hobbs. We landed on an unnamed glacier on the south side of the range a mile (at most) from the peak, and scrambled up a scree gully and onto the hanging glacier west of the peak....  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=142a52b238&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Low on Peak 10,510'.  John Kelley

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Alaska's Chugach Mountains: New Routes


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=63cc554dff&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=63cc554dff&e=49344561f0> John Kelley on The Cancer <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=63cc554dff&e=49344561f0> 
By John Kelley

Kevin Ditzler and I returned to Benign in early January 2011 and climbed a new line in the center of the west face that we’re calling The Cancer. It’s 3,200′ and goes at VI WI5 M6. The last 800′ or so is the same as Grizzly Camel. We decended the col between Bellicose-Beneign col, taking 48 hours roundtrip from a high camp.  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e43fb79410&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: John Kelley on The Cancer. Kevin Ditzler

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Pakistan: K7 West, southwest pillar attempt


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=be4de824ee&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=be4de824ee&e=49344561f0> K7 West Attempt <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=be4de824ee&e=49344561f0> 
By Cecilia Buil, Spain

We spent 35 days from mid June to the end of July on the Charakusa Glacier attempting a new line on the southwest pillar of K7 West. As temperatures were low we were able start the line up a couloir that would normally be dangerous and rocky but was now snow and ice. We established a camp here and then climbed above until we reached the rock wall. We then climbed a pitch of A3, left our ropes, and descended in bad weather. Returning when it was much warmer, we saw a huge ice avalanche cascade down the upper part of our line….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=5a589a750b&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Southwest pillar of K7 West. Matt McCormick

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Pakistan's Charakusa Valley: Pathan Brakk


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=a10121ac5b&e=49344561f0> Pathan Brakk
By Matt McCormick, AAC

In April 2010, Tim DeRoehn and I were awarded one of the inaugural Copp-Dash Inspire Awards. It would be our first trip to Asia. We had big goals, specifically to make the first complete ascent of the southwest pillar of K7 West, and to explore the endless rock spires ringing the Charakusa Valley. After settling into base camp (ca 4,500m) along with our friend and cook Fida Hussain and his assistant Abbas. we acclimatized by climbing on beautiful granite boulders a minute’s walk from camp, and hiking the area, scoping almost limitless objectives….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=281b2b08de&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Pathan Brakk from southwest. Matt McCormick

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Nepal: Annapurna Himal, Singu Chuli


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=82dbff2730&e=49344561f0> Singu Chuli
By William van Meegdenburg, The Netherlands

On November 3-4 Cas van den Gevel and I climbed the south-southeast face of Singu Chuli. We reached the south ridge at 6,350m but found the crest above so heavily fluted and corniced that we deemed it too dangerous to continue to the summit….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8eac2c0562&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: South-southwest face of Singu Chuli. William van Meegdenburg

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India's Pangi Valley: Shiva Shankar West


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=b84ea3b751&e=49344561f0> Shiva Shankar West
By Bruno Moretti, CAI, Italy

The Pangi straddles the Himachal Pradesh – Jammu and Kashmir borders and remains isolated for more than seven months of the year. The road into the area crosses 4,000m passes and is a difficult and adventurous journey in summer. During winter the climate is arctic and the land covered with a thick blanket of snow, making it is impossible to enter or exit this region from November until May or June. From mid August to mid September we explored the Saichu Valley, the first of the Pangi’s sub-valleys right of the Chenab. After reaching Udaipur via the Rothang Pass, we had to deal with the devastating consequences of the huge storm that days before had hit South Asia, producing the tragic flooding in Leh….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=11aa4a0114&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Shiva Shankar West. Bruno Moretti

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India: Pangi Valley history and objectives


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c037064810&e=49344561f0> Pangi Valley peaks
By Bruno Moretti, CAI, Italy

Many challenges remain for future parties, the most notable being the eastern and northern aspects of Shiva [attempted by the Russians, see elsewhere in this section]. Equally interesting are the unclimbed icy northwestern faces of Menthosa (6,443m), Baihali Jot (6,290m) and its satellites, the latter with elegant ice faces above the Saichu Valley. No less intriguing is the south face of Shiva Shankar, though it has a disturbing array of seracs that get the sun’s rays most of the day….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=ea74c34a86&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Upper east ridge of Shiva.  Bruno Moretti

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Mali: Hand of Fatima, Suri Tondo


 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage2.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=753edb9037&e=49344561f0> Hand of Fatima
By Jens Richter, Germany

Black and White is a great new route on solid rock typical of the remarkable Hand of Fatima. The first time we studied the line from the desert below, it was around midday and the temperature felt like 60°C. Our eyes followed the shadow of Kaga Tondo as it bisected the yellow southeast face of its smaller brother, Suri Tondo. The line looked magic, and also impossible to climb. Some days later we were following black and red stripes on this wall. These ended at a headwall with obvious white “slabs” of guano, produced by the huge vultures that encircled the summit….  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=e7ac3005f6&e=49344561f0> (read more)
Photo: Southeast face of Suri Tondo.  Jens Richter

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A lot more reports are online!


Click the “New <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=c7af73468d&e=49344561f0> ” button at aaj.AmericanAlpineClub.org <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=937e75e578&e=49344561f0>  and scroll down to see which reports are from your favorite part of the world.
 <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8450dc8611&e=49344561f0>  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8450dc8611&e=49344561f0> White Tower <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=8450dc8611&e=49344561f0> 
Photo: Laos's White Tower. Jens Richter

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Please Submit Your New Routes to the AAJ!

If you have climbed or attempted a new mountain or big wall route, please report it to us soon after your success (or glorious failure). While the printed American Alpine Journal only comes out once a year (in July or August), the AAJ Online publishes all year round. Your report will later be published in the famous annual book for the permanent record-and you will receive a copy as a token of our appreciation.

The AAJ strives to be complete-to publish ALL the big new routes-but we can only do this with your help. Please have mercy on your poor editors and send us your report early so that we can keep the world up to date in a timely fashion. The complete Submissions Guidelines are available  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage1.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=15d30ba274&e=49344561f0> here, including specific contact names and email addresses. But you can always reach us at  <mailto:aaj at americanalpineclub.org> aaj at americanalpineclub.org.

A big THANKS! from your editors,
Kelly Cordes
Lindsay Griffin
John Harlin III 


What we publish:

The AAJ tries to be the world's "journal of record" for documenting significant new climbs. We seek reports on all new long routes worldwide ("long" typically means a full day or more on the climb itself). We sometimes report a repeat ascent if the peak or route has not been climbed in many years; if there have been major changes in conditions on the mountain; if the style is new (example: first free ascent); if the ascent was exceptionally fast; if it was the first winter ascent (but only of major routes); or if the report supplies vital information for future climbers. We do not publish reports on first "national" ascents (for example, the first American or Italian or Japanese ascent). We also don't cover first women's ascents, handicapped climbs, or other special recognitions. Sometimes, however, we break our own "rules."

How to write a report:

Reports for the Climbs & Expedition section of the AAJ are typically 250-500 words long. The prime goals are to document history and to provide information that helps future climbers in this region, but we enjoy a good story, too! Here is a simple way to remember what should be included in the report: tell the story of your trip ... very briefly!

Be sure to include:

What?-name of peak and route.
Where?-exactly where is it? Country, mountain range, route line.
When?-dates of the expedition.
Who?-names of climbers.
Why?-why did this climb interest
How hard?-difficulty of the climb, using whichever grading system you prefer.

For photo guidelines and more, please click  <http://americanalpineclub.us1.list-manage.com/track/click?u=60afa02764806293a37aacfda&id=418933881e&e=49344561f0> here.

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